Corteforte Awaits: Enjoy 15% Off! Plus Tim's Tasting Notes..
Last week, I brought you along on the journey I made in June to Corteforte in the heart of Valpolicella. In the second and final part of my reflections of the trip, I want to share with you exactly how I taste wines when I visit a producer. Staying in the heart of the vineyard itself, I asked Carlo to taste his wines with me amongst the very vines from which they came - a practice that I have found allows me, as a sommelier, to understand the emotional connection of the winemaker to the terroir and the wines they produce.
As an added incentive to recreate the experience within your own home, we are offering 15% off all Corteforte until 12pm on Thursday 4th September. Simply click the link below and the discount will be automatically added to your cart.
https://sommelierschoice.co.uk/collections/vendors?q=corteforte
Concentus Rosso delle Venezie - 2017
The tasting started with the 2017 bottle of Concentus Rosso delle Venezie, a blend that includes traditional Amarone grapes of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella as well as Cabernet and Sangiovese, showcasing the estate’s willingness to experiment while staying true to regional character. Incorporating Sangiovese brings through an acidity only matched in Italian wine making with the Barbera varietal, where the initial richness is followed by a sharpness unique amongst wines of the region. Harvested and then dried for 40 days, the 2017 vintage had spent a month or so in the bottle prior to tasting. Elegant and clean with blackberry notes at the fore, with leather and strong pepper on the follow-through, the 2017, much like the 2016 and 2015 proved to be as harmonious and complex as its name. A robust and earthy slow-cooked beef shin, synonymous with ragu, would serve to lengthen the sweetness experienced at the front of the palate and challenge the inclusion of Sangiovese head on.
‘’Terre di San Zeno’’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOP - 2017
It seemed a natural next step to move to an Amarone of the same vintage after the Concentus to reorient the palate towards what the brain tells you is a classic Valpolicella wine. ‘’Terre di San Zeno’’ is vinified exclusively with the traditional grapes of Valpolicella, utilising the best bunches at the right point of ageing, placed in a dedicated room to dry. A blend of 65% Corvina, 20% Rondinella and 10% Molinara with 5% of the aforementioned ‘little grape varieties’ of the region, the pressing takes place only in December or at the beginning of the following year, with a very long fermentation due to the low temperature of the period. After a long stay in steel, ageing in oak casks and a long aging in bottle, it is perfect to drink now and will remain so for 10 to 15 years after the initial harvest.
The 2017 vintage had a wonderful poise and elegance, matched with super drinkability underpinned by a real sense of freshness and a clean scent of wild fruits, sour cherries and plums. The wine is characterized by a long, intense aftertaste, with silky yet robust tannins and a lingering, warming finish. Despite its high alcohol , exceptional balance ensures the finish remains poised and the mouthfeel is seamless and persistent.
This Amarone really is a classic meditation wine, expressing both opulence and restraint, with depth and finesse that reward pairing with grilled red meats, for game and for strong flavoured cheeses, the latter of which Corteforte’s wines pair with seamlessly.
‘Corteforte Riserva’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOP 2018
A ‘Reserva’ specification can be attributed to an Amarone with a minimum ageing period of four years from the first of November of the year of harvest and with a content of non-reducing extracts not less than 32 g/l, varying according to the vintage. Corteforte’s methods go beyond the technical specification and spend four years in large oak barrels after an initial period of 24 months in steel tanks before a further maturation of 18 months in the bottle.
Bursting with fruit, there is a vibrancy on the palette that extends in every corner of the mouth - a full, velvety and warm aroma to both nose and taste. The initial taste sensation at the side of the mouth recurs after swallowing three seconds later, bringing the structure of the fruit to the fore. Despite the slightly higher alcohol content, there is no sense of being overpowered - it retains the drinkability and balance of its predecessors with ease. Such ‘Reserva’ wines have a slightly longer longevity than their Ripasso cousins, with around 15-20 years from the vintage of the harvest yet this is a special wine, where I can only implore you to pair it with the conviviality and conversation experienced towards the end of a special meal with friends.
‘’Dea Lualida’’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOP - 2017
Amarone Dea Lualda is the crown jewel in Corteforte’s portfolio, produced only every seven years, with the blending of the best ageing casks. For 2017, 65% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and 10% other native grape varieties are dedicated to ‘’Lualda’’, the ancient goddess of agriculture, fertility and abundance of the native populations of Valpolicella.
The intense garnet red, fringed with orange edges, is a result of 30 months maturation in the tank and 36 months in French oak and unique compared to the rest of the portfolio. Perhaps the driest of the wines tasted on the day, it retains the initial cherry note at the front of the palate but does not retain a similar singularity in the aftertaste, rather it is complimented with notes of liquorice, cinnamon and ginger. Despite its age, it retains the feeling of a wine in its infancy, to be expected for a wine that has spent only 10 days in the bottle. Much beyond the bouquet, the fluidity in the mouth is the discerning quality of this wine when compared to the rest of the portfolio. Its comparatively youthful vibrancy for Amarone would allow for it not simply to pair with its traditional bedfellows of game and red meat, but to withstand and compliment an additional layer of spice, such as a spiced Provolone with pepper. Like many things in their infancy, exercising patience is something that will allow Dea Lualida to become more than the sum of its parts, a true ’Goddess’ in the making and I for one, will be laying one down in the cellar to enjoy in 30 years time.
Recioto di Corteforte 2021 Della Valpolicella Classico DOP
Recioto di Corteforte is a superb ambassador of Valpolicella’s sweet red wine heritage, blending primarily Corvina and Corvinone with lesser amounts of Rondinella, Molinara, and select native grapes. During the harvest, the external parts of the bunches are selected (in the dialect ‘’Recie’’ or orecchie, hence the name Recioto) then placed to dry naturally. In January, about half of the dried ‘Recie’ are pressed and fermented, triggered by slightly heating a small part of the must, continuing slowly at a temperature of around 10-15 degrees celsius. In March, the remaining grapes are crushed, with very high sugar content and added to the one previously in fermentation. The racking begins when the alcohol reaches around 12-13% and the fermentation is finally stopped shortly after, retaining more than 10-12% of sugar residue.
This process drives a wine that gleams a lush, deep ruby, foreshadowing its expressive palate. The bouquet is sumptuous and nuanced, opening with inviting aromas of wild cherries in liqueur, black fig, and candied violets, but what truly distinguishes this Recioto is the unmistakable and instinctive note of sweet almonds that unfolds both on the nose and palate. These almond tones — evocative of bitter almond or marzipan— seamlessly entwine with underlying hints of cocoa, cinnamon, clove, and a gentle balsamic lift.
On the palate, there is a luxurious interplay of black cherry compote, dates, and chocolate, all accented by that central almond character, which adds a unique depth and savory tension to the wine’s vibrant sweetness and balancing acidity. A finely woven tannic structure carries the ample, velvety body into a remarkably persistent finish, leaving a lasting impression of dark fruit, refined spice, and, above all, that captivating almond nuance. Poised for meditation or pairing with blue cheese and chocolate, this Recioto exemplifies Corteforte’s ability to craft wines of singular character and charm.
Reflections on Vapolicella’s Future
In closing, what struck me most, however, was the sense of continuity. Each wine told a story—not just of a single vintage, but of a place, a family, and a philosophy that values patience, tradition, and respect for the land.
As I left Corteforte, the sun dipping behind the hills, I felt a renewed appreciation for the complexities of Valpolicella. In a world where climate, tradition, and innovation are in constant dialogue, Corteforte stands as a beacon of integrity and excellence. For those seeking wines with soul, depth, and a true sense of place, this estate is a must-visit—and a reminder that, in the right hands, the story of Valpolicella is far from finished.
