Corteforte - The Beating Heart of Valpolicella
Over the next two weeks, we will be sharing a deep-dive into Corteforte following our recent visit to the beating heart of Valpolicella. To coincide, we are offering a handpicked selection of three exceptional wines that showcase Corteforte’s commitment to tradition and innovation with a 15% discount across the three bottle bundle available here.
https://sommelierschoice.co.uk/products/the-corteforte-three-bottle-collection?_pos=2&_sid=6acaf68b0&_ss=r
For over 25 years running Sommelier’s Choice, I have had the privilege of exploring some of the world’s most storied vineyards. Yet, few destinations capture the essence of tradition, terroir, and innovation quite like Corteforte Vineyard in the heart of Valpolicella Classica, a few kilometres to the northeast of Verona, bordered by the coves of the Adige River and the first foothills of the Alps.
My recent visit to this historic estate was not just a tasting of the contemporary vintage nor a mere producer drop in —it was an immersion in the art of Valpolicella winemaking, set against a backdrop of ancient stone, sun-warmed vines, and the ever-evolving climate of northern Italy.
A Sense of Place
Corteforte’s approach to hospitality is as refined as its wines. Whilst Corteforte was founded by Carlo Maria Cerutti in 1989, the estate itself harks back nearly 800 years, anchored by a 14th century fortress and a 17th-century farmhouse, lovingly restored and now serving as both winery and agriturismo. The sense of history is palpable, every stone and vine whisper stories of centuries past. Stepping into the grounds, you are greeted by the gentle hum of bees and the scent of wild herbs—an immediate reminder that here, nature and culture are inextricably linked.
Viticulture: Tradition Meets Terroir
Corteforte’s vineyards are relatively low-lying, sitting between 150 and 300 meters above sea level in the Fumane valley, and are predominantly southwest facing—an orientation that favours optimal ripeness. The limestone-rich soils, a mix of clay and alluvial debris, offer excellent drainage and impart a subtle minerality to the wines. The estate’s 6 hectares of vines in Negrar and an additional 4 hectares in Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella are tended with meticulous care, following organic practices and a hands-off philosophy that allows the land to speak for itself.
The pergola veronese training system is still widely used here, a nod to tradition but also a practical choice. This method provides shade and airflow, helping to preserve acidity and freshness in the grapes—a vital quality as the region faces increasingly warm summers. Whilst the predominant Valpolicella grapes of Corvina and Rondinella are heavily utilised within their portfolio, the estate is particularly proud of its commitment to preserving the “little grapes” of Valpolicella: Dindarella, Pelara, Oseleta, and Molinara. Their inclusion in blends like the Vigneti di Osan adds complexity and honours the region’s heritage.
The Influence of Climate
The current climate is a constant undercurrent in discussions with the winemaking team. Like much of Europe, Valpolicella has experienced warmer summers and unpredictable rainfall in recent years generally leading to lower yields and higher ABV.
For Corteforte, rising temperatures have meant:
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Earlier harvests to preserve acidity and avoid over ripeness.
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Increased vigilance against disease, particularly in humid periods.
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A renewed appreciation for traditional methods like pergola training, which shields grapes from excessive sun and helps maintain balance in the finished wines.
Yet, the estate’s relatively low-lying, well-ventilated sites have proven resilient. The adjacent Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake, has become ever more important in the months outside of summer, preserving a comparatively mild and temperate climate for the rest of the year. The focus on organic farming (certified in 2018 as a SQNPI sustainable area) and minimal intervention has allowed the vines to adapt naturally, producing wines that are generous, structured, and—most importantly—true to their origins.
Enoteca Valpolicella: A Temple to Local Wine
No visit to Corteforte is complete without time spent in the Enoteca Valpolicella, the estate’s on-site tasting room and restaurant boasting the best seasonal produce and local culinary traditions brought forward into modernity. Housed within the old stone walls, the Enoteca is a sensory sanctuary. Rows of bottles glint in the soft light, each a testament to the estate’s philosophy: wines that are expressive, long-lived, and deeply rooted in place.
They are paired with dishes that speak of the land surrounding the vineyard; on this occasion a medley of home-grown vegetables cooked, pickled and frozen using six different techniques to start, followed by a traditional ragu accentuated by fresh pasta made solely from the yolk of the egg and a gravity-defying tiramisu.
The staff’s knowledge of local produce is encyclopaedic, yet their manner is inviting with no air of pretence —a reflection of the Cerutti family’s passion for sharing their craft through warmth and generosity. Carlo's wines are a true joy, both in their own right and when paired with food. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
