Vineyards and winemaking
Les Mitans takes its name from its position in the middle of the Volnay slope. The east-facing Premier Cru combines limestone scree at the top, exposed bedrock through the centre and deeper clay lower down, creating a nuanced setting for Pinot Noir with both fragrance and structure.
Domaine de Montille farms biodynamically and harvested the 2016 fruit by hand after a season in which frost reduced the crop. Approximately two-thirds of the bunches were fermented whole, lending aromatic definition and fine structure, before maturation in French oak with around 30% new barrels.
Tasting notes
Appearance
Clear ruby-garnet, with moderate depth and a gently evolving rim.
Nose
Wild strawberry, red cherry and rose petal are joined by blood orange, sweet spice and a discreet smoky note. With air, nuances of forest floor and crushed limestone come forward.
Palate
Medium-bodied and finely drawn, with pure red fruit, fresh acidity and firm but polished tannins. The whole-bunch component brings lift and definition, while notes of truffle, spice and stone carry the graceful, persistent finish.
Food pairing
Pair with roast poussin and morels, herb-crusted lamb loin, grilled salmon with lentils, or a beetroot and mushroom en croûte. Serve just below room temperature in a generous Burgundy glass to allow its perfume to emerge.
Background story
Domaine de Montille is one of Volnay's historic estates, with roots in the village extending back several centuries. Under Étienne de Montille, the domaine has expanded its holdings while maintaining a clear emphasis on biodynamic farming, whole-bunch fermentation where appropriate and wines shaped for graceful ageing.
The 2016 Les Mitans received 95 points from Tim Atkin MW. It combines the concentration of a small, frost-affected crop with the poise expected of this mid-slope climat. The wine is developing well, though bottle condition can vary; stand upright before opening and give it a brief, careful decant only if needed.
