Vineyards and winemaking
Solo Mazuelo is made entirely from Mazuelo, the Rioja name for Carignan, grown in the one-hectare La Cantera vineyard in the Sierra de Yerga. Javier Arizcuren's grandfather, Justo Casado, planted the bush vines just over 30 years ago on a plateau above 550 metres, where low-fertility sandy clay is strewn with pebbles and exposed to the cooling Cierzo wind.
The grapes are farmed sustainably and harvested by hand into 11kg baskets. After destemming, a short cold maceration precedes fermentation with indigenous yeasts in 500-litre stainless-steel vats, with daily punching down and pumping over. Malolactic fermentation takes place on the lees in 500-litre French and American oak casks, with total oak maturation of around ten months.
Tasting notes
Appearance
Medium-deep purple-red, now showing a fine garnet line at the rim.
Nose
Black cherry and bramble fruit are joined by violet, dried thyme and cracked pepper, with cedar, warm stone and a subtle balsamic note emerging in the glass.
Palate
Firm and energetic rather than heavy, with tart dark fruit and Mazuelo's naturally vivid acidity at the centre. Fine-grained tannins frame notes of plum skin, savoury herbs and mineral spice, leading to a long, dry and persistent finish.
Food pairing
Its acidity and savoury structure suit slow-cooked lamb neck with rosemary, venison sausages and buttered lentils, ox-cheek stew, or smoky aubergine with chickpeas. Manchego is a natural Spanish match, while aged Wensleydale offers an equally convincing British alternative.
Background story
Architect and winemaker Javier Arizcuren created Arizcuren Bodega y Viñedos to recover the identity of the high vineyards of Quel in Rioja Oriental. Working from a compact urban winery in Logroño, he focuses on small parcels and varieties with deep local roots rather than a conventional house blend.
Mazuelo has traditionally been valued as a supporting grape in Rioja because its acidity and tannin give blends longevity. Bottling it alone makes Solo Mazuelo an unusually clear expression of both the variety and La Cantera; production is very limited. For this mature 2015, stand the bottle upright before opening and taste before deciding whether gentle decanting is needed.
