Vineyards and winemaking
Alfrocheiro is a rare Portuguese variety that found a natural home in the high Dão after phylloxera. At Taboadella it grows on granitic soils around Silvã de Cima, where the elevated, temperate conditions allow this fragile grape to develop perfume, freshness and firm but delicate tannins.
The 2019 fruit was harvested by hand, vibration-sorted and fully destemmed. The wine spent nine months in 500-litre French oak barrels, 30% new and 70% previously used. Production totalled 12,600 bottles.
Tasting notes
Appearance
Deep ruby with violet reflections and a clear rim.
Nose
Black cherry, cranberry and blackberry are joined by dried rose, pine needle, cedar and chocolate-orange peel.
Palate
Medium-bodied and finely structured, with red and black fruit set against vibrant acidity and close-knit tannins. Clove, bramble and subtle oak add complexity, while the finish is smooth, savoury and persistent. The wine is developing well; open carefully and give it a little air before serving.
Food pairing
Serve with roast loin of pork, lamb rump, pigeon with lentils, or a wild-mushroom and pearl-barley risotto. Its lifted acidity also works neatly with crumbly Caerphilly.
Background story
Alfrocheiro was once called Tinta Francesa de Viseu, although its origins remain uncertain. Taboadella approaches the naturally low-yielding variety with particular restraint, seeking the firm, delicate tannins and aromatic individuality that distinguish it from more powerful Dão grapes.
The estate's modern chapter is led by the Amorim family, whose wine interests date to 1870. Their winery, designed by Carlos Castanheira, sits discreetly within the plateau and uses gravity-flow handling to protect the purity of each parcel and variety.